The Last Expedition

So here’s an account of the longest most frustrating but still awesome trip I had in Ghana.

Day 1

We (Wilder, Marianne, Emily, Alex, and myself) left campus to go to the bus station and waited a couple hours until the bus showed up only a little late. Looking good so far. The STC buses that travel far are really nice. This one had nice wide seats and air conditioning. I’m really really glad it did because this turned into a 15 hour bus trip. Half of it was spent sleeping (which was easier bc the bus left in the evening so most of the ride was in the night).

Day 2

We arrived in Tamale, the northern region capitol around 7 or 8 in the morning. We found a nice breakfast place and looked around in the cultural center where Emily found a really awesome hat. I was really impressed with Tamale overall. It’s much cleaner than Accra (capitol of Ghana, where the university is close to) and people were a lot friendlier and not trying to constantly sell us things or hit on the girls in our group. Plus the dominant religion is Islam in the north, so there were mosques everywhere, which made me feel like we had entered another country almost. We found the bus station we needed to get to Mole National Park. Bought tickets for the “1:30” bus. It showed up around 5. But apparently that’s normal. So why not change the time the bus is expected to come? Who knows. Anyway after waiting in the sun and dirt and dust for hours we got on the bus for the 3 hr trip down a long bumpy dirt road and got off at Mole around 9 at night. Checking in was simple and the room was nice. Off to bed.

Day 3

This was one of my favorite days in Ghana. We got up around 6 to go on the morning walking safari. The first animals we saw were elephants! Then warthogs, gazelles, and baboons. The walk lasted a couple hours, then we went back to the hotel for an awesome breakfast. After the breakfast we went to sit on the outlook and got to see the elephants hanging out at the watering hole. Around lunchtime we rode on top of a jeep to get to our canoe ride down the river close by. Unfortunately Marianne lost her hat on the jeep ride, but I’m thinking it didn’t really matter because that jeep ride was amazing. The canoe ride was super chill. I was a little nervous though when the guide told us about the crocodiles in the river after we got in the boat. After getting back to the hotel, we spent the rest of the day hanging out at the pool. Later we had dinner with two really nice Dutch people who were doing volunteer work in the northern region. They had been doing a lot of the same activities with us all day, so we ended up getting to know them fairly well.

Day 4

This was the worst day. Our original plan was to go see the hippo sanctuary in the upper western region. It didn’t happen. This is what happened instead. We got up super early to catch the 4am bus out of Mole. We took that bus for about an hour to Damango, and took a 4 hour bus from Damango to Wa, the capitol of the upper west region. Another very long bumpy bus ride. We got to Wa and realized going to see the hippos would take another day that we didn’t have time to do. So we chilled and had some lunch while we figured out what to do. Our goal was to make it home Tuesday night (this was Monday), so it looked like we needed to think about a return trip. On the side, I have to tell you about the most horrifyingly soul-shattering bathroom I’ve ever seen. Marianne and I walked down the street until we found a building that appeared to look like a washroom (Ghanaians use the term washroom). It was being cleaned out by a truck with a tube, so the smell outside was already horrendous. When it was done I walked to the guys’ side and took a look in. That’s all it took. Flies and maggots everywhere. Ughh. And it’s important to note that in Ghana public bathrooms are not all that accessible like they are back home, so it usually cost money to use them (not much, usually about the equivalent of 7 cents). So the thought that I was about to pay to use this hole in the floor covered in bugs in a really dark tiny room was crazy. We left and found somewhere not necessarily nice but definitely less worse. Back with the whole group, we bought bus tickets back to Mole, hoping to get all the way back to Tamale that night. Keep in mind this is 4 hrs back to Mole, then 3 hrs to Tamale, and we had just wasted a trip up to Wa. It was hard to keep a smile on at this point. The day had been kind of ruined. Luckily while we were waiting for the bus to start loading, some Ghanaian elder man kept us entertained. He asked to marry one of the girls. Then he started asking about getting a visa to the US. Then when we finally exchanged names, he couldn’t believe my name was Bobby and told me it wasn’t a real name, or something like that. And the best part was how little I could understand his English. A lot of the time I just laughed and smiled and pretended to understand what he was saying. All in all he was a really sweet man and was probably just interested in where we were from. Although the marriage proposals to my female friends did get kind of annoying. Oh well sometimes they’re really funny. We got on the bus and headed back to Damango. When we got there we were trying to figure out how to get all the way back to Tamale in the same night. There were no more buses coming so we paid 150 cedis (~$100) for a cab driver to take us all the way to Tamale. It was the longest bumpiest cab ride ever. Three hours later we got to Tamale, got a hotel, and settled in for the night. Luckily the hotel was nice. Cheap and simple. The water and electricity worked, and that’s all we needed.

Day 5

We got up super early again to go see what buses to Accra were available. The buses straight to Accra were full so we got one that went to Kumasi, the biggest city in the heart of Ghana, and halfway point for us to get home. Nothing too out of the ordinary on the way to Kumasi. I slept some, read, and took some pictures of the landscapes. Once we got to Kumasi, we walked around until we hopped in a cab to go to the bus station. There was nothing available going to Accra that same day. At that point even getting home in a trotro was appealing. So we went to the trotro station and found a nice air conditioned van that was going all the way to Accra. Long, long ride back. Probably the bumpiest trotro/van ride I’ve ever encountered. Finally we got back to Nkrumah Circle in Accra and crammed in a cab back to campus. Walking through the doors of ISH was such a satisfying feeling.

This was definitely not the easiest trip and not the most cheerful, but it was still legendary and I got to travel with 4 really amazing friends. If anything this has taught me to be patient when dealing with public transportation and to have a back-up plan if you’re in a hurry. But when you’re in Ghana you shouldn’t be in a hurry because let’s face it, no matter what, you will be late. Just gotta take it one step at a time.

Christianity and...Ghana

This post is actually adopted from a response to one of my Camp Tekoa return staff application questions. It just seemed appropriate because I've been meaning to blog about this for a while. It's a little edited, seeing as how in this one there's no mention of camp.

My spiritual growth over the past few months has been quite a different experience. I remember back when I was applying to study abroad that I wrote about wanting to experience a different type of religious culture. I definitely got what I asked for, maybe even a little more. The faiths here are similar to the US- mostly Christian and Muslim. The way Christianity is practiced is very intense though. The church services are very, very long. I’ve been to a few, some I really enjoyed, some I did not. What I really like about Christianity in Ghana is that it is very community-based, where people pray in groups a lot and there is always some big event or seminar going on. And there is so much excitement during worship. People are joyful about praising God. What bothers me a little though is the way the name Jesus is commercialized. His name is put on everything- the back of buses, fast food stands, convenient stores, etc. And it doesn’t feel quite so welcoming. Christianity seems like more of a club or cult here than a faith. And I don’t mean always, but sometimes a lot of my friends and I get that vibe. It seems like people are sometimes Christian just to be religious, because everyone else is doing it.

This has really made me think about my own faith as well as Christianity as a whole. How many times have I prayed or helped someone in need because people were watching and I knew I needed to? How many times have I prayed or helped someone in need because I was being sincere and was actually feeling and sharing God’s love? I really hope it has been the second one much more often. 

On another point, some of my closest friends here are either atheist, agnostic, or experimenting with religion. If you are not a very religious person and you come to Ghana, daily conversations can get a little frustrating, because people love to ask about your religion, and are surprised if you don’t really have any beliefs. Sometimes conversations with my friends can get a little controversial, but I don’t love them any less because of it. It’s been really interesting to hear so many different viewpoints and why they think the way they do. It’s made me think back on why I really am a Christian. Faith isn’t quite as real when you follow it for no real reasons. It’s important for us to understand for ourselves why we pray, worship, and believe. Only then are we able to truthfully influence others.

The Hunt For Guitar Strings

This was one of the most frustrating days I’ve had since being in Ghana. So I thought it was worth writing a little story on. Last week my friend Jamie and I took an afternoon to go to one of the markets to get some guitar strings. My D string snapped about 2 weeks ago, so I’ve been itching to restring the guitar since. I told him I knew where one shop was in Madina. Since Madina is the closest market to campus, we hopped on a tro-tro around noon to make what was supposed to be a simple errand. We got off at the station, walked around until we saw the shop. Both of us have nylon string guitars, so nylons were what we were looking for. The owner of this shop said he had steel strings but no nylons. Okay so first attempt doesn’t work. Oh well. He pointed us in the direction of somewhere else that might have had them. After missing the road a couple times, we walked down the street that the shop was supposedly on. We saw a sign for music equipment, but the shop was nothing more than a small shack with some speakers that I’m pretty sure were broken. The guy there wasn’t much help either. We gave up in Madina and tro-tro’d back towards campus. Jamie got off there because he had class, but I stayed on to head into Accra where Makola market is. I was told in the past by people on campus to go to a place called Zungolen (not sure about the spelling but that’s how it sounds) to get guitar equipment. With help from some Ghanaians in the busy market, I found the place and was really excited. I asked for nylon strings, but sure enough, they didn’t have them either. The guy at the desk helped me out though and told me to go to a shop around the corner called Unibex. I went there, and thought I saw the light at the end of the tunnel when I could see stacks of strings against the wall behind the desk. I asked the lady for strings, she showed me what they had, then I asked “do you have any nylon strings? I’m looking for nylon.” She said “Ohhh no. The nylon strings, they are finished.” My heart sank. I asked when she would be getting more nylon strings, but she didn’t know (this didn’t surprise me at all). So I headed back to campus after a wasted afternoon (seriously, this search took around 5 hours). The only thing I can really take from this is that I know my way around Madina and Makola a lot better now.

That day at the markets was not a complete shock, even though it was very disappointing. I’ve learned to expect not being able to get what you’re looking for, especially when it’s something as specific as guitar strings. The market can be fun sometimes, but days like these can be exhausting. There’s just no organization at all, and there’s no telling if a shop will actually have what they advertise. This is especially common in restaurants. Sometimes, only half the menu is really available. I’ll ask for something and they’ll say “Oh, those are finished,” which means they are out of that until they get more, whenever the heck that may be. That phrase has become one of my least favorite things to be told here, but it’s also become an inside joke between all the obroni’s because we hear it so much. I really like getting things from the market usually because I can bargain for the price, but I have grown such an appreciation for the simplicity of driving to the nearest store at home in the US, walking in and looking in the labeled racks, or asking for something, and actually being able to buy it, using a debit card, or if using cash, being able to get change back no matter what size bill I hand them. 

Kokrobite

So I have seen lots and lots of beautiful places so far, but one of my favorite places to go, perhaps my favorite place in Ghana, is Kokrobite. Imagine you are on vacation with some really good friends. You go somewhere exotic like Hawaii or Mexico where there’s tons of palm trees, bars under tiki huts, a calm quiet atmosphere, and an incredible beach. Only you’re really in Ghana. And you’re a student. And everything is super cheap. And locals are really friendly (or sometimes creepy friendly and ask for your phone number right away, but you get use to it). Kokrobite is so much fun I have been there twice already and am going back soon.

It’s about an hour and a half journey from the university, although it took 4 hrs last Friday because of the ridiculous traffic. We usually take a couple different tro-tro’s and a taxi or two to get there. I’m not sure but I think Kokrobite is the name of the actual town that the “resort-like” area is in. So we have to walk through the village after being dropped off at the tro-tro stop. It’s pretty nice. Everyone is really friendly and says hello. The actual tourist spot to stay is called Big Milly’s Backyard. It’s like a low-key resort with an out-door bar, a beachside restaurant, a mixed-drink bar (very very good), guest cabins and loft, vendors, and a stage for Friday night traditional drumming & dance and Saturday night reggae. With the vendors, what is so nice is how chill they are. They are not pushy and will usually give good prices if you speak Twi with them. The food- probably the best part. The restaurant next to the beach, Big Milly’s, serves great breakfast and amazing dinner (you even have to order dinner in advance earlier in the day). But even better is a place right outside the Backyard called Kokrobite Gardens. It’s an Italian restaurant. I’m not talkin’ American-Italian. I mean full Italian-Italian. The owner is an Italian man who has lived here a while. There I have had some of the best pizza, pasta, cake, and Sicilian wine ever.

What’s funny is that there’s always tons of obroni’s (white people) there. Usually American students from the university or Europeans who are volunteering or are on vacation. Financially it surprises me because it’s completely free to enter the Backyard and enjoy the beach. I guess all the tourists drive away the interest of locals. Oh well. I like this place so much I devoted a whole blog post to it, which are becoming worth more and more as I have written less and less of them. I should really pick up the slack. Anyway, there you have it. Kokrobite.

Luxuries of home

At this point in the semester I have realized things I have missed the most and truly appreciate back home. I'm mainly listing material things and some ideas. I won't do people because that list would get pretty lengthy. I don't mean to complain here either. This is just from some of the major differences I've noticed. I thought some of the things on this list might amuse some people.

toilet paper provided in stalls
hot water
clean water
easy internet access
laundry machines
power outage being an unusual event
customer service
an organized school system
no oburoni traps (***see bottom for explanation)
air conditioning
my bicycle
my banjo & harmonicas
Campus Crusade
bluegrass
bacon
dairy products
D.H Hill Library at NC State
sarcasm humor
That's what she said jokes
Dolly's Ice Cream
Cook Out
Camp Tekoa

***no oburoni traps- So in Ghana the sewage system is covered in some areas, but mostly it runs along the side of the road completely open. It's usually about a foot or two deep and and about a foot wide, just enough room for someone to fall in when trying to step across from the sidewalk to the road. The Twi word for white person is 'oburoni', and who else besides international students would not be use to the trenches along side the road? I luckily haven't fallen in one yet but plenty of my friends have, and they can scar you up pretty bad if you fall bad. Hence we have given them the name "oburoni traps", and it has definitely stuck.

Language barriers

It's true that the official language in Ghana is English, but that is really more for political and educational purposes. I will say though that I have been fine getting around with English because everyone does indeed know it, just some more than others. I was just so taken back at how little Ghaniains use English between each other on a regular basis. Around the university area and in town I'll usually here Twi, Ga, Ewe, and Pigeon English being spoken. The only one I can really recognize is Twi and sometimes Pigeon. It gives off such a weird vibe when I hear something I don't understand and I see the people talking staring at me. But I've gotten that feeling before at home when it looks like Hispanics are talking about me nearby. Really should have taken Spanish. Oh well. I've been enjoying my Twi class though. It has been very helpful. I'm still learning but I can communicate every now and then when a local initiates a conversation in Twi. The usual "how are you?" "good and you?" "pretty good" sounds like "Wo ho te sεn?"  "Me ho yε. Na wo nso ε?"  "Me nso me ho yε."  With phrases like this people can generally understand the American accent, but for more in depth conversations a small error in pronunciation could change the whole meaning of a sentence because Twi is a tonal language unlike English which is positional.

So I was thinking how hard could class be if the language is English? In two of my classes I understand about half the things the professors say sometimes because of the Ghaniain accent and the poor acoustics of the lecture hall. Luckily the material in the classes isn't that hard. I'm just gonna have to read a lot more than rely on lecture notes. I find it really funny when people ask me to slow down when I'm talking. In the US we usually talk a little bit slower in the south, but here my slurred accent has confused so many Ghaniains. But I've started to adjust and develop a slower and more articulate speech when talking to Africans. All in all most locals have been very patient with all of us international students on language problems and sometimes they give out some good pointers.

Soccer game & Festival

Wow it's been over a week since the last post. I'm really slack about this. Anyway, this weekend was pretty neat. I went to my first international soccer game ever (never even seen the US team play). Ghana played Swaziland and won 2-0. It was really exciting. The soccer atmosphere here is so different. The game definitely has much more appreciation than back home. It wasn't completely packed but it was plenty loud. I don't think there was one second with the absence of the sound of one of those plastic horns you hear at the world cup. And it was so funny when our group sat down because from that moment on vendors came swarming around us trying to sell food and drinks and souvenirs. But by this point I'm not surprised anymore when that happens.
On Saturday I went with a group on a bus to a festival in Cape Coast. I feel really dumb because I can't remember the name of it, but it was so much fun. There were lots of costumes and music, which was paraded down the streets. On the end of the parade people were carrying the 'Queen Mother' on a massive chair under an umbrella. I can't remember exactly her role in the town but I'm guessing she is some sort of political or spiritual leader. What I find funny is the fact that most people and Ghana are either Christian or Muslim and they have a festival that celebrates the indigenous beliefs. Guess it goes to show how much they hold strong to their traditions. Cape Coast is a pretty interesting town. The first time we went there we just took a tour of the slave castle (which was mind blowing) and didn't see much of the town. This time we definitely got to see the downtown area. It's so different from Accra (the capitol). Accra is so mixed because there's areas of poverty while there's also huge modernized American style buildings for phone companies and resorts and other things. Cape Coast is still very colonial and not so 'in your face.' And from what we experienced on Saturday, it can be very festive and colorful.
If there's one thing I've really enjoyed about culture outside the university, it's that at events like these everyone is generally in a very happy mood and pretty friendly. It's so unlike America where on holidays families might kind of do their own thing. Sometimes it feels as though I'm observing one big giant family. Definitely a more communistic culture.