Christianity and...Ghana

This post is actually adopted from a response to one of my Camp Tekoa return staff application questions. It just seemed appropriate because I've been meaning to blog about this for a while. It's a little edited, seeing as how in this one there's no mention of camp.

My spiritual growth over the past few months has been quite a different experience. I remember back when I was applying to study abroad that I wrote about wanting to experience a different type of religious culture. I definitely got what I asked for, maybe even a little more. The faiths here are similar to the US- mostly Christian and Muslim. The way Christianity is practiced is very intense though. The church services are very, very long. I’ve been to a few, some I really enjoyed, some I did not. What I really like about Christianity in Ghana is that it is very community-based, where people pray in groups a lot and there is always some big event or seminar going on. And there is so much excitement during worship. People are joyful about praising God. What bothers me a little though is the way the name Jesus is commercialized. His name is put on everything- the back of buses, fast food stands, convenient stores, etc. And it doesn’t feel quite so welcoming. Christianity seems like more of a club or cult here than a faith. And I don’t mean always, but sometimes a lot of my friends and I get that vibe. It seems like people are sometimes Christian just to be religious, because everyone else is doing it.

This has really made me think about my own faith as well as Christianity as a whole. How many times have I prayed or helped someone in need because people were watching and I knew I needed to? How many times have I prayed or helped someone in need because I was being sincere and was actually feeling and sharing God’s love? I really hope it has been the second one much more often. 

On another point, some of my closest friends here are either atheist, agnostic, or experimenting with religion. If you are not a very religious person and you come to Ghana, daily conversations can get a little frustrating, because people love to ask about your religion, and are surprised if you don’t really have any beliefs. Sometimes conversations with my friends can get a little controversial, but I don’t love them any less because of it. It’s been really interesting to hear so many different viewpoints and why they think the way they do. It’s made me think back on why I really am a Christian. Faith isn’t quite as real when you follow it for no real reasons. It’s important for us to understand for ourselves why we pray, worship, and believe. Only then are we able to truthfully influence others.

The Hunt For Guitar Strings

This was one of the most frustrating days I’ve had since being in Ghana. So I thought it was worth writing a little story on. Last week my friend Jamie and I took an afternoon to go to one of the markets to get some guitar strings. My D string snapped about 2 weeks ago, so I’ve been itching to restring the guitar since. I told him I knew where one shop was in Madina. Since Madina is the closest market to campus, we hopped on a tro-tro around noon to make what was supposed to be a simple errand. We got off at the station, walked around until we saw the shop. Both of us have nylon string guitars, so nylons were what we were looking for. The owner of this shop said he had steel strings but no nylons. Okay so first attempt doesn’t work. Oh well. He pointed us in the direction of somewhere else that might have had them. After missing the road a couple times, we walked down the street that the shop was supposedly on. We saw a sign for music equipment, but the shop was nothing more than a small shack with some speakers that I’m pretty sure were broken. The guy there wasn’t much help either. We gave up in Madina and tro-tro’d back towards campus. Jamie got off there because he had class, but I stayed on to head into Accra where Makola market is. I was told in the past by people on campus to go to a place called Zungolen (not sure about the spelling but that’s how it sounds) to get guitar equipment. With help from some Ghanaians in the busy market, I found the place and was really excited. I asked for nylon strings, but sure enough, they didn’t have them either. The guy at the desk helped me out though and told me to go to a shop around the corner called Unibex. I went there, and thought I saw the light at the end of the tunnel when I could see stacks of strings against the wall behind the desk. I asked the lady for strings, she showed me what they had, then I asked “do you have any nylon strings? I’m looking for nylon.” She said “Ohhh no. The nylon strings, they are finished.” My heart sank. I asked when she would be getting more nylon strings, but she didn’t know (this didn’t surprise me at all). So I headed back to campus after a wasted afternoon (seriously, this search took around 5 hours). The only thing I can really take from this is that I know my way around Madina and Makola a lot better now.

That day at the markets was not a complete shock, even though it was very disappointing. I’ve learned to expect not being able to get what you’re looking for, especially when it’s something as specific as guitar strings. The market can be fun sometimes, but days like these can be exhausting. There’s just no organization at all, and there’s no telling if a shop will actually have what they advertise. This is especially common in restaurants. Sometimes, only half the menu is really available. I’ll ask for something and they’ll say “Oh, those are finished,” which means they are out of that until they get more, whenever the heck that may be. That phrase has become one of my least favorite things to be told here, but it’s also become an inside joke between all the obroni’s because we hear it so much. I really like getting things from the market usually because I can bargain for the price, but I have grown such an appreciation for the simplicity of driving to the nearest store at home in the US, walking in and looking in the labeled racks, or asking for something, and actually being able to buy it, using a debit card, or if using cash, being able to get change back no matter what size bill I hand them. 

Kokrobite

So I have seen lots and lots of beautiful places so far, but one of my favorite places to go, perhaps my favorite place in Ghana, is Kokrobite. Imagine you are on vacation with some really good friends. You go somewhere exotic like Hawaii or Mexico where there’s tons of palm trees, bars under tiki huts, a calm quiet atmosphere, and an incredible beach. Only you’re really in Ghana. And you’re a student. And everything is super cheap. And locals are really friendly (or sometimes creepy friendly and ask for your phone number right away, but you get use to it). Kokrobite is so much fun I have been there twice already and am going back soon.

It’s about an hour and a half journey from the university, although it took 4 hrs last Friday because of the ridiculous traffic. We usually take a couple different tro-tro’s and a taxi or two to get there. I’m not sure but I think Kokrobite is the name of the actual town that the “resort-like” area is in. So we have to walk through the village after being dropped off at the tro-tro stop. It’s pretty nice. Everyone is really friendly and says hello. The actual tourist spot to stay is called Big Milly’s Backyard. It’s like a low-key resort with an out-door bar, a beachside restaurant, a mixed-drink bar (very very good), guest cabins and loft, vendors, and a stage for Friday night traditional drumming & dance and Saturday night reggae. With the vendors, what is so nice is how chill they are. They are not pushy and will usually give good prices if you speak Twi with them. The food- probably the best part. The restaurant next to the beach, Big Milly’s, serves great breakfast and amazing dinner (you even have to order dinner in advance earlier in the day). But even better is a place right outside the Backyard called Kokrobite Gardens. It’s an Italian restaurant. I’m not talkin’ American-Italian. I mean full Italian-Italian. The owner is an Italian man who has lived here a while. There I have had some of the best pizza, pasta, cake, and Sicilian wine ever.

What’s funny is that there’s always tons of obroni’s (white people) there. Usually American students from the university or Europeans who are volunteering or are on vacation. Financially it surprises me because it’s completely free to enter the Backyard and enjoy the beach. I guess all the tourists drive away the interest of locals. Oh well. I like this place so much I devoted a whole blog post to it, which are becoming worth more and more as I have written less and less of them. I should really pick up the slack. Anyway, there you have it. Kokrobite.